ACNE - London S/S 2011

From its beginnings as a denim powerhouse, the ACNE women’s wear showing in London today proved why the Swedish label has fast become a label synonymous with casual elegance.

Yes the minimal trend prevailed (or as some are calling it, Philo’ism) as the collection placed emphasis on cut and texture over colour and embellishments. The initial white garments sent down the runway included sheer organza singlets, leather hot pants (only for the brave) and military style jackets. Chiffon dresses were layered beneath more structured shirt dresses until a selection of blood red ensembles signalled that the collection was heating up. With monochrome in mind, the tone of the collection shifted as the oversized sweaters reaffirmed the labels title of luxury basics.

The relaxed silhouette continued as athletic style zipper jackets and denim dresses, often beneath navy tights, were sent down the runway. Certainly Johnny Johanson had layering mind when he assembled the collection. The infrequent dazzle of a paillette in a shimmering mini skirt meant that evening wear wasn’t totally forgotten. A sheer snake skin pant and matching top broke the block colours up, as did the silver shift dress modelled by hot newcomer Lindsey Wixson.

The studded leather jacket, both in the vest and motorcycle style in the shows finale, replaced the shearling ‘IT’ jacket of last season and was a standout feature of this year’s collection.

Proenza Schouler S/S 11

The boys at Proenza Schouler covered all the stops in their stunning s/s 2011 collection which debuted with the usual air of casual cool now synonymous with the brand.

As the first looks stormed down the runway, you could be forgiven for believing that this collection was about a sophisticated lady as models wore button up collared shirts, knee lengths skirts and low scooped necked jackets. In blush, soft purple and dove tones, the pieces were adorned with intricate bead detailing, kept cool with long slung thin belts and t’s casually tucked in a skirt or trouser. Man style jackets, both oversized and more fitted variations, were all delightful and appeared in a bold, hyper coloured orange or a more subdued black option.

Soon, the peeping fluorescent bra appeared beneath the polished twin sets, only to be in full view as the garments become diphaneous. Ruffles in acid yellow chiffon with black and white skirts and singlets were an edgy, modern variation of the lingerie trend.

Without sacrificing the refinement and elegance of the pieces, the colour palette ensured that the range was youthful and fresh. Suplhar red, deep purple, neon yellow and hazard orange appeared in textured layers, and towards the end of the show, loose fitting dresses. The flat sandals now replaced the heels but the urban, glamorous essence of the range remained. The boys also created some interesting hardware which appeared in several of the looks. Neckpieces with coloured jewels on metal plating were an artistic and welcome addition to a selection of the garments.

The simple black sheer finale dress modelled by Australian expat Julia Nobis seemed the perfect exit from Proenza for S/S in keeping the IT girls lusting for more from this clever design duo.

Have a look at some stunning behind the scene shoots of the show, courtesty of style.com