ACNE - London S/S 2011

From its beginnings as a denim powerhouse, the ACNE women’s wear showing in London today proved why the Swedish label has fast become a label synonymous with casual elegance.

Yes the minimal trend prevailed (or as some are calling it, Philo’ism) as the collection placed emphasis on cut and texture over colour and embellishments. The initial white garments sent down the runway included sheer organza singlets, leather hot pants (only for the brave) and military style jackets. Chiffon dresses were layered beneath more structured shirt dresses until a selection of blood red ensembles signalled that the collection was heating up. With monochrome in mind, the tone of the collection shifted as the oversized sweaters reaffirmed the labels title of luxury basics.

The relaxed silhouette continued as athletic style zipper jackets and denim dresses, often beneath navy tights, were sent down the runway. Certainly Johnny Johanson had layering mind when he assembled the collection. The infrequent dazzle of a paillette in a shimmering mini skirt meant that evening wear wasn’t totally forgotten. A sheer snake skin pant and matching top broke the block colours up, as did the silver shift dress modelled by hot newcomer Lindsey Wixson.

The studded leather jacket, both in the vest and motorcycle style in the shows finale, replaced the shearling ‘IT’ jacket of last season and was a standout feature of this year’s collection.

ANNA DELLO RUSSO

As fabulous as the clothes she wears, Anna Dello Russo is a name synonymous with high-end glitz, embellished accessories and quiet simply, over-the-top, bold fashion choices. Not one to quietly fade into the background, Anna is a centre-piece, a major attraction that could literally stop traffic.

Constantly dazzling in Balmain, Lanvin and Dolce and Gabbana, Anna is as confident as her outfits allude. Current Editor-at-Large for Vogue Nippon, Anna has been outstanding in her pioneering role for the magazine, making it one of the most influential editions to date.

Italian born and bred, Anna is an avid collector of couture and famously owns over 4000 pairs of shoes. She is bold, brave and uninhibited in her fashion choices, daring to wear outfits aspiring fashionistas half her age would not (note the see-through Dolce & Gabbana lace dress with red underwear ensemble). She is a fashion idol, so much so that Anna is also creative consultant for several high profile designers, although refusing to name her clientele.

Anna epitomises luxury and her pieces, be it jewellery or shoes, are always decadent and embellished. She self-professed that she is always in evening ware is often citied in dazzling cocktail rings, a killer stiletto, a bright pink trench or a smart gold shift dress. A bloggers dream, Anna is never seen in the same outfit twice.

As Helmut Lang so notoriously framed it, Anna is a ‘fashion maniac’ and as far as I’m concerned, this is one lady who is crazy cool.

Proenza Schouler S/S 11

The boys at Proenza Schouler covered all the stops in their stunning s/s 2011 collection which debuted with the usual air of casual cool now synonymous with the brand.

As the first looks stormed down the runway, you could be forgiven for believing that this collection was about a sophisticated lady as models wore button up collared shirts, knee lengths skirts and low scooped necked jackets. In blush, soft purple and dove tones, the pieces were adorned with intricate bead detailing, kept cool with long slung thin belts and t’s casually tucked in a skirt or trouser. Man style jackets, both oversized and more fitted variations, were all delightful and appeared in a bold, hyper coloured orange or a more subdued black option.

Soon, the peeping fluorescent bra appeared beneath the polished twin sets, only to be in full view as the garments become diphaneous. Ruffles in acid yellow chiffon with black and white skirts and singlets were an edgy, modern variation of the lingerie trend.

Without sacrificing the refinement and elegance of the pieces, the colour palette ensured that the range was youthful and fresh. Suplhar red, deep purple, neon yellow and hazard orange appeared in textured layers, and towards the end of the show, loose fitting dresses. The flat sandals now replaced the heels but the urban, glamorous essence of the range remained. The boys also created some interesting hardware which appeared in several of the looks. Neckpieces with coloured jewels on metal plating were an artistic and welcome addition to a selection of the garments.

The simple black sheer finale dress modelled by Australian expat Julia Nobis seemed the perfect exit from Proenza for S/S in keeping the IT girls lusting for more from this clever design duo.

Have a look at some stunning behind the scene shoots of the show, courtesty of style.com

Isabel Marant

French born and bred, Isabel Marant is a designer whose name epitomises high street chic. For a label as luxe and chic as she, Marant manages to simultaneously remain so cool and edgy.

Her aesthetic has repeatedly been labeled as high-end Parisan street. Marant’s collections are seamlessly taken from the international catwalks, to the backs of fashion worshippers. Initially a jewellery designer, part of Marant’s perfection comes from an inherent understanding of the combining classic shapes with an indie sensibility.

Simply mention the name, and a image of a cool, nonchalant Parisian teen transpires. This female is fearless, make-up free and ironically, doesn’t care for fashion trends. Isabel’s relaxed, haute bohemian style extends beyond the French, and credits Sienna Miller and Cameron Diaz as avid followers of the label.

My favourite things? Think baroque bomber jackets, the now infamous fur gilet with splashes of colour, slouched military boots, and most recently, three quarter pants with adorned in silver spangles.

FRENCH VOGUE 90th PARTY

Images Courtesy of I Can Teach You How To Do It

MARC JACOBS S/S 2011

For many, Marc Jacobs is quintessentially NY fashion week and is one of the most hyped events on September’s fashion radar.

This collection did not disappoint. As the first look stormed the runway, we knew this season was going to be bold, bright and brave. The pieces were dominated by physcadelic , retro prints which screamed 70’s glamour and excess.

From the halter dresses, wide legged trousers and puffy sleeved tops, Marc’s message was loud and clear. Turning his back on the apparent minimal trend, the energy of the show was electric and harked back to a time when females were liberated in their fashion choices and dressed up just for the fun of it!

A consistent theme that Jacobs committed to throughout several of his designs was a floral structure which bloomed beautifully from belts, headpieces and collars of dresses and tops. The theme blended seamlessly into his hippie style, off the shoulder tops and billowing dresses. The bright gold cut off shorts and fitted jackets would most certainly have some recalling the disco dancing days of Studio 54.

The deep, intense colour pallet included rich plums, maroons and mustards, softer pinks; mauve gold’s and the odd sequined embellishment were dramatic and feminine. He contrasted block colours with stripes and spots in kaleidoscopic proportions.

Marc contested that this collection was ‘everything I love’ and the fun and unrestrained nature of the garments confirmed this declaration and brought the frivolity back into fashion.

Kate Lanphear: Fashion Editor of US Elle

Her fashion choices are as bold and androgynous as her sharp platinum bob. She is your studded, skull, stripe and skinny jean kind of fashionista who rocks a tailored black suit jacket like no one else in the industry. Kate Lanphear is the US Fashion Editor of Elle and for very good reason.

She has a hard edged style that most would find intimidating, yet a sweet loveable face with an almost wicked signature smirk. Predominately in black, Kate plays up with textures be it a shredded top above a chain mail vest or a luxe fur gillet. She has also been known to don a Jim Beam or rock band T, layered under a plaid shirt and denim jacket. Despite her rock’n roll demeanour, Kate always manages to keep it feminine, be it through a killer Louboutin stiletto, Balenciaga clutch or A-line leather skirt. While she always looks refined, Kate does relaxed styling beautifully, typically in a loose white T, baggy jeans and some studded Balenciaga wedges.

Lanphear is completely unique in her style as she mixes mannish cuts and high fashion pieces so seamlessly with a vintage printed T-shirt or college style jersey. Her image is raw, original and exudes a tough, hard figure. As effortlessly as she is grungy, Kate can also look equally fabulous in a classic wide leg trouser with a fitted grey blazer. She is the dream canvas for the urban, masculine labels such as Wang and dabbles in the gothic influences from Lanvin and Givenchy.

Regardless of which style she adopts, Kate is never seen without her arm candy. Enough to make any girl swoon, her jewellery includes a Hermes Collier De Chien cuff (her matt black version is to die for), teamed with an Isabel Marant man’s style chain bracelet, a spiked Eddie Borgo diamante armlet and a Lanvin cocktail ring. You can almost hear her jewels clamouring together as she runs between couture shows in Paris. Her shoe collection is as equally as impressive and often with a similar amount of hardware. She can be seen in a slouchy Givenchy boot, a spiked Louboutin pigelle pump or a classic over the knee boot (all black of course).

Whilst her tendency to wear separates means that she is constantly wearing different garments, her aesthetic of contemporary ‘goth/glam’ is always the same. She manages to team the most obscure pieces effortlessly which makes her one of fashions’ modern day muses.